Full Bust Adjustment – Sewmanju
In Sewing Made Simple Issue 6, Manju Nittala of www.sewmanju.wordpress.com, reviews the new Doris Dress pattern for sewists with a fuller figure and tells us how to complete a Full Bust Adjustment.
Full Bust Adjustment
When sewing the Doris Dress, the main alteration that I made was to do a 1 inch Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to the bodice using the method described in Fit for Real People by Palmer and Alto.I cannot recommend this book highly enough to any home sewist, regardless of size. I used the method described in their book for “fronts with cap, cut-on, or kimono sleeves”.
The illustration shows you how I did this alteration. It basically involves cutting the sleeve off and cutting up through the bust apex position to the seam allowance at the armhole, spreading the pattern apart by the required amount, and also lengthening the front bodice to match (in my case I lengthened the front bodice by 1.5 inches).
This method also introduces a side seam bust dart. The other alteration I made was to account for my sway back: I sliced a 1 inch wedge off the centre back of the skirt, tapering to nothing at the sides, and added this wedge back to the lower hem of the skirt.